The city of Ahmedabad, situated on the banks of the Sabarmati River, is the largest city in the state of Gujarat. It has been a magnificent medieval capital, a centre of trade and commerce, a city visited by many medieval travelers, an early modern industrial centre, and an important site on the map of India's struggle for independence.
Today, it is a city known for its great institutions of learning, and the many monuments that dot its landscape. Ahmedabad is recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage City.
HISTORY
Due to its strategic location on a trade route which crossed the port-cities of Khambayat (Cambay), Surat, and Bharucha, and its proximity to the Sabarmati River, Ahmedabad was sought after by many kings and dynasties. It was founded by Sultan Ahmed Shah in 1411. Since then, it has expanded westward beyond the walled city to areas across the Sabarmati River, forming the newer part of Ahmedabad
Click below to read more on the long history of this city.
The area around Ahmedabad is inhabited by the Bhil tribe. This area is known as Ashaval and its ruler is King Asha. (Archaeological evidence proves that the area was inhabited in the 8th century.)
King Karandev I, the Solanki ruler, defeats the Bhil King of Ashaval and establishes Karnavati on the Sabarmati River bank.
Gujarat comes under the rule of the Vaghela dynasty of Dholka.
Gujarat is annexed by the Delhi Sultanate.
Zafar Khan Muzaffar breaks away from the Delhi Sultanate and crowns himself Sultan. He forms the Muzaffarid Dynasty, or the Gujarat Sultanate at Patan.
The city of Ahmedabad is founded by Ahmed Shah I.
Second fortification of the city is done by Mahmud Begada.
Mughals gain control of the city. During the Mughal reign, Ahmedabad becomes a thriving centre of trade and commerce.
The city is taken over by Momin Khan II, a Mughal noble under Alamgir II.
Ahmedabad is retaken by the Marathas. The Peshwas and the Gaekwads jointly control it.
In December, the city is transferred to the British.
A military cantonment is established in the city.
Gujarat Vernacular Society is established by Alexander Forbes and Kavi Dalpatram.
In British- ruled Gujarat, Ahmedabad cantonment is the first to join India’s First War of Independence against the British.
The first textile mill is set up in the city.
A railway link between Ahmedabad and Mumbai is established.
The Swadeshi Udyog Vardak Mandal is established in Ahmedabad.
On the 1st of February, Gandhi arrives in Ahmedabad. The city becomes the base of his actions for India’s freedom struggle.
Mahatma Gandhi shifts his Ashram from Kochrab to the Sabarmati River bank. He stays in this ashram till 1930.
The Ahmedabad Mill workers strike for better wages and working conditions. Anasuya Sarabhai and Mahatma Gandhi support the movement.
The Textile Labour Association or the Majoor Mahajan Sang, India’s oldest union of textile workers is founded by Anasuya Sarabhai.
Gujarat Vidyapeeth is founded by Mahatma Gandhi.
Mahatma Gandhi launches the Salt Satyagraha from the Sabarmati Ashram in March. The city is at the forefront of India’s freedom movements.
Ahmedabad is the capital of the newly formed state of Gujarat. It remains the state capital till 1970.
CITY TALES
The foundation of Ahmedabad was laid at the Manek Burj, which today lies in the heart of the walled city. Take a look at the map and you will notice that most of the older structures lie to the east of the Sabarmati, while the newer institutions that make up this city can be found on the western bank. The site of Sarkhej, on the west bank, is an exception, and was considered to be on the outskirts of medieval Ahmedabad.
CITY TALES
The medieval city of Ahmedabad was settled within walled fortifications that today lie at the heart of the sprawling urban centre that is modern Ahmedabad.
Take a look at the map and you will notice that most of the older structures lie to the east of the Sabarmati river, while the newer institutions of the city can be found on the western bank.
Ahmedabad has been home to a vibrant tradition of textile making, ever since it was founded in the fifteenth century. Flowing silks, precious brocades, gold and silver threads, or zari, luxurious yards of dyed indigo, printed calico, and velvet, cotton- these are the craft traditions that add richness to Ahmedabad's heritage and history.
Flip the cards to discover the many threads that make up Ahmedabad's Textile History.
NEW CITY, NEW CRAFTS
Ahmedabad had the conditions and patronage that allowed creative traditions to flourish in the city.
The founder of Ahmedabad, Sultan Ahmed Shah I, encouraged craftsmen and weavers to come to his newly established city. These craftsmen then contributed to the textile production in the city.
Ahmedabad's craftspeople, and its proximity to trade routes contributed to the prosperity of the city.
A MEDIEVAL TRADE CENTRE
In the early 16th century, Gujarat was a leading centre for trade.
Ahmedabad excelled in the manufacture of all kinds of textiles which were both exported and used locally. Fabrics like the Ashavali brocades of Ahmedabad were in great demand throughout the country. In fact, it was believed that no Ahmedabadi bride’s trousseau would be complete without an Amdavadi saree crafted out of this exquisite brocade.
Image courtesy Victoria Memorial Hall, Kolkata.
AN INFLUENTIAL INDUSTRY
The Ain-i-Akbari refers to Ahmedabad as a famous centre for brocade, velvets and silk.
The popular Ashavali brocades- known as kincobs were favourites among royalty. Produced in a small village called Ashabelo Tekro, the makers of these brocades were known for their skilled craftsmanship.
Interestingly, It is also said that these weavers from Gujarat migrated to Varanasi carrying with them the knowledge of textile weaving and beautiful motifs.
A NEW, BLUE COMMODITY
According to the Dutch East India Company export records, more than 60,000 kilos of Sarkhej Indigo was exported in the mid 17th century.
A ‘remarkable’ practice, noted by the European Traveller Tavenier, was the sifting of Indigo prior to its export to get rid of dust. Sifters were employed for this process and the dust was in turn sold within the country for dyeing purposes.
This dust was so minute and delicate that if an egg was to be left next to the sifter, by the end of the day the insides of the egg would turn blue!
Image courtesy Muzeart.
A GIFT FIT FOR ROYALTY
In the medieval period, textiles also became sought after products as gifts, especially among royalty.
In 1645-55, when Ahmedabad was under Mughal control, a pavilion of embroidered velvet, interwoven with brocade, 43 gaj by 32 gaj had been prepared at Ahmedabad at a cost of Rs 50,000 and was erected on the occasion of Emperor Shah Jahan’s birthday.
This miniature painting shows Shah Jahan as a prince, being weighed against gold and luxurious silks, on the occasion of his birthday.
TEXTILES FOR NEW BEGINNINGS
In 1638 when Shah Jahan shifted his capital to Shahjahanabad and the Red Fort was inaugurated, a gorgeous canopy, specially prepared for the occasion in the royal factory at Ahmedabad measuring 70 gaj by 45 gaj and costing a lakh of rupees was raised by 3,000 active farrashes in the complex.
A GLOBAL COMMODITY
Textiles from Ahmedabad were well known even beyond the geographical contours of the Indian subcontinent.
Duarte Barbosa, a Portugese officer and writer wrote in the beginning of the sixteenth century that “wild tribesman of Malaya "did not consider their freedom secured until they had stored Ahmedabadi brocade that matched their height. This was the standard ransom for prisoners in war."
His book is the featured on the reverse of this card.
TRAVELLERS ON TEXTILES
European travellers who came to Ahmedabad were also impressed by the textile production in the city.
Apart from Jean Baptiste Tavernier, a 17th century European traveller whose words are on the reverse of this card, a German traveller,Mandelslo,wrote in 1638 that, “There is not in a manner any nation nor any merchandise in all Asia, which may not be had at Ahmedabad."
He also mentioned that great antiquities of gold, and silver brocades were made at Ahmedabad, besides satins and velvets of various colours and carpets on the ground, of gold, silk and yarn.
A NEW MANCHESTER
The British exported cotton produce and dyes from Ahmedabad for use as raw material in the textile industry back home.Some merchants then set up textile mills by importing the machinery from England.
Ahmedabad's first textile mill was thus established in 1861.
Today with the decline of patronage, traditional weavers have been compelled to leave their centuries old occupation and join these mills.
As Ahmedabad became a hub of textile production, it came to be known as the 'Manchester of India'.
The Bhadra Fort was one of the first structures built by Sultan Ahmed Shah in 1411 when he established the city of Ahmedabad.
It houses various structures such as the main citadel and the Maidan-i Shah or the royal grounds. Another royal structure in the complex is Ahmed Shah’s Mosque, built in 1414, and used at the time as the private mosque by the rulers.
One can also find the Azam Khan’s Serai here which was built in 1637 as a caravan serai and was subsequently used as a jail in the British period.
Interestingly, this Sultanate period fort has a famous modern structure, the Bhadra Fort Clock Tower. It was brought from London by the East India Company in 1849 at the astronomical cost of Rs. 8000. It holds the distinction of being the first building in Ahmedabad to be electrified when, in 1915, its dials were backlit with electric lights.
The clock had fallen into disuse but was restored in 2016 by Percy Daruwala, a Navsari-based clock restorer.
×Jama Masjid
It is said that this mosque was once the largest mosque of its time.
The Jama Masjid of Ahmedabad was built in 1424 for housing the growing community of the city of Ahmedabad. At the time it was built, it was perhaps the largest mosque in the subcontinent.
Built over a long period of time, the sandstone Masjid has at its centre, a vast courtyard which can be entered from three gates located on three sides of the courtyard. The complex also has an ablution tank which is surrounded by a colonnade.
During the time of the Sultanate, the maidan on the southern side would be used as an entrance for the people of the city and the royal family would enter from the maidan on the northern side.
There is an inscription on the mihrab (niche which indicates the western wall) which records the date of the completion of the building on the 4th of January, 1424.
×Badshah no Hajiro
This white marble structure is the resting place of the Founder of Ahmedabad.
The word ‘badshah’ signifies kings and ‘hajiro’ refers to tomb. This monument, thus, as the name suggests, houses the tombs of various kings of Ahmedabad. These include the tombs of Ahmed Shah (the founder of the city), his son Muhammad Shah II and his grandson Qutubuddin Ahmed Shah II. The mausoleum itself is a massive structure topped with a dome and interspersed with perforated screen windows or jalis at regular intervals. The central chamber within the structure which houses the graves is built with white marble. The structures in this complex, especially the jalis, are an example of the highly skilled craftsmanship of the city.
×Rani no Hajiro
The walls of this tomb complex are adorned with an element that is considered unique to Ahmedabad’s craft tradition.
Located east of the Manek Chowk are the tombs of Ahmed Shah’s wives. Like its male counterpart, the Badshah no Hajiro, this complex is decorated with exquisitely carved screen windows or jalis. However, unlike the male tombs, this tomb is built on top of a high plinth with an open gallery and a lofty gateway and a circumambulatory path.
This tomb complex is also known as the tomb of Mughalai Bibi after the principal queen who lies buried in the chamber.
The jalis of the tombs are an excellent example of the exquisite craftsmanship that Ahmedabad’s architecture is dotted with. In this tomb, the jali work is done in a sequence of panels with different panels displaying different motifs such as lotus flowers, buds and leaves, creepers and geometric patterns.
×Rani Rupmati Masjid
This beautiful mosque was built in the memory of a Queen of Ahmedabad.
On the road to the Delhi Darwaza lies Rani Rupmati’s mosque.. It was built in the latter years of Sultan Qutubuddin Ahmed Shah II’s reign by Sultan Mahmud Begada in memory of his wife, Rani Rupmati. The tomb of the queen also lies close to this mosque.
The prayer hall of the mosque has three domes. The central arch, flanked by minarets on each side, is raised so as to allow light and air to fill in the chamber. The minarets were broken in the earthquake of 1819 but still show exquisite carvings. Projected balcony windows are also located on various sides of the mosque. The building is embellished with very intricate carvings especially in its minarets.
×Rani Sipri’s Mosque and Tomb
Historians and medieval travellers have given this elegant mosque and tomb complex an equally elegant title.
Located close to the Astodia Gate in the walled city is the mosque and tomb of Rani Sipri, one of the wives of Sultan Mahmud Begada. Probably built by the queen herself, these structures date back to 1514.
The mosque itself is rectangular in shape with three sides closed and one side open. The roof is supported by two rows of six double pillars. There are three mihrabs in the prayer chamber and two intricate jalis or lattice work which allow light to filter in.
Opposite the mosque is the tomb of the queen. It is a square pavilion with a central domed chamber supported by twelve pillars. The outer walls of the circumambulatory path are decorated with jali work.
The mosque’s intricate sandstone carvings and lattice work are so beautiful that the structure is also known as the Masjid-i-Nagina or jewel of a mosque. James Fergusson, the architectural historian, while praising the mosque said, “it may be considered the gem of Ahmedabad”.
×Sidi Saiyyed’s Mosque and Tomb
This mosque has played many roles in the five centuries that it has existed.
Outside the Lal Darwaza, on the north east of the Bhadra Fort lies the famous Sidi Saiyyed Mosque, built in 1572, just a year before the city fell into the hands of the Mughals. Sidi Saiyyad was an Abyssinian in the service of Rurni Khan, the second son of the governor of Surat during Muhammad Shah’s reign. Later he joined Bilal Jhar Jhar Khan, another Abyssinian general in the army of Muzaffar Shah III.
The mosque is built of yellow sandstone with an open front and numerous arches. It is most famous for the ornate lattice work or jalis that adorn its many semi-circular windows.
The most remarkable among these is the ‘Tree of Life’ motif which represents the tree of life that grows in paradise according to Islamic faith. The motif is also known as the Kalpavriksha and is common also in Buddhism and Hinduism.
Desecrated by the Marathas and used as public offices by the British period, the structure has seen a recent revival as it has become emblematic of the city of Ahmedabad. The Indian Institute of Management has even adopted the tree of life motif as its official logo.
×House of MG
This traditional Ahmedabadi mansion that is a familiar spot for many Ahmedabadis, now functions as a heritage hotel.
The house of MG, that is, the house of Mangaldas Girdharidas is one of those buildings in Ahmedabad that has evolved over decades. It was built in 1924 as a home for Seth Mangaldas Girdhardas, a prominent businessman and philanthropist who made his fortune in Ahmedabad’s textile trade. Mahatma Gandhi was also a guest in this building for three days when he returned from South Africa in 1915. By the 1950s, all the members of the businessmen’s family had moved to the western part of Ahmedabad. As the textile business suffered, the property also fell into ruin. Parts of it were even given on rent for offices. In the 1990s, the descendant of Mangaldas, Abhay Mangaldas decided to renovate the property into a heritage hotel. It is now a famous tourist attraction in the old walled city.
×Jhulta Minar
These specially-designed minarets have enthralled visitors to the city for centuries.
Among the wonders of Ahmedabad, the shaking minarets have left a number of architects and engineers perplexed because of an interesting characteristic. When one minar is slightly shaken, the other vibrates too, while the connecting corridor does not.
These intricately carved minarets, stand tall in the city of Ahmedabad. These were once a part of the Sidi Bashir Mosque. Some believe that the mosque was built by a slave of Ahmed Shah I, Sidi Bashir. While some others are of the opinion that it was built by Malik Sarang, a noble in the court of Mahmud Begada whose tomb is located close to the mosque. The mosque is in complete ruins as it was destroyed in the war with the Marathas in 1753.
Interestingly, Ahmedabad has another pair of shaking minarets. One of them, though at a glance seems to be incomplete, was dismantled by the British in the attempt to study the ‘shaking’ phenomena. The British failed to succeed and moreover could not reassemble the structure, leaving it as we see it today.
×DUTCH AND ARMENIAN TOMBSs
These unassuming tombs are a reminder of the city's links to a European trade power.
The Dutch and Armenian tombs bordering the Kankaria lake date back to the early 17th century. The Dutch East India Company had obtained permission from the Mughal Emperors to erect their tombs in Ahmedabad and Sarkhej. The inscriptions on these tombs, in Dutch and Latin, date between 1649 and 1700 CE. A cluster of 49 tombs, these represent the Indo-Dutch trade of the time which involved the supply of cloth yarn, cotton and indigo to the city. The Armenian tombs could be of the Armenians who worked as brokers in the Dutch factory.
Four types of tombs can be located here, domed tombs, pyramids, walled tombs and plain gravestones. In the earthquake of 2001, the tombs suffered from extensive damage. However, the Archaeological Department with the support of Ahmedabad Municipal Corporation restored the tombs thereafter.
×GUJARI BAZAAR
This weekly market from the reign of Sultan Ahmed Shah I, has seen many resurrections over the centuries.
The Gujari Bazaar of Ahmedabad is held under the open sky on the banks of Sabarmati every Sunday. Started by Ahmed Shah in 1414, the bazaar is almost 600 years old. At that time it was called the Khas Bazaar or ShukrawariBazaar as it operated on Fridays between the TeenDarwaza and Bhadra Fort.
The market has shown remarkable evolution and adaptation over time. The market was shifted to an open space close to Sidi Saiyyed Mosque, after which, it was shifted to the Sabarmati River bend at the end of the Ellis bridge in 1954.
Most recently under the Sabarmati Riverfront Development Project, it was moved to a space behind the Gaikwad Haveli, between Ellis bridge and Sardar Bridge.
It is famous for its used items and antique goods.
×IIM - AHMEDABAD
This is one of the country’s leading educational institutions - its beautiful campus is the result of an interesting collaboration.
The Indian Institute of Management is a business school in Ahmedabad that was established in December 1961. Led by space scientist Dr. Vikram Sarabhai and the industrialist and philanthropist Shri Kasturbhai Lalbhai, the founding of this institution also received support from the then Chief Minister of Gujarat, Dr. Jivraj Mehta.
The National Institute of Design (NID) took on the task of designing the institution and appointed prominent architects such as Louis Kahn and B.V. Doshi for this task. The red exposed brick building of the institute is an amalgamation of the vernacular architecture of the city and the modern architectural styles. Kahn believed that the classroom should not be the sole focus for academic study. Thus, in his design, the hallways and the Plaza became equally important and were designed to facilitate interaction between both students and faculty.
The campus also houses many dormitories, the Vikram Sarabhai Library, the R.J. Matthai Auditorium and the Kasturbhai Lalbhai Management Development Centre amongst other famous structures.
×KITE MUSEUM
This Kite Museum houses collections that feature prominently in one of Gujarat's most renowned festivals.
The city of Ahmedabad is a vibrant sight during Uttarayan where people can be seen flying kites from their rooftops. Interestingly, the city even has a Kite Museum. This houses the kite collection of Bhanubhai Shah, a kite collector.
The museum has 125 rare and unique kites showcasing the history of kite making in Gujarat. There are specimens of the hexagonal Japanese version of a kite called Rokoku, some of which can be upto 20 feet in length. One can also find miniature kites, kites with images of Mahatma Gandhi and Jawaharlal Nehru and kites with intricate paintings such as that of Radha and Krishna and Garba scenes.
The Kite Museum is housed in the Sanskar Kendra which was built by the Swiss-French architect Le Corbusier. It has a simple brick exterior and is equipped with ingenious methods to adapt to the weather conditions of Ahmedabad. These include features such as patches of plants, sun-shading systems and 45 water cooling basins installed on the rooftop to counter the heat.
The Sanskar Kendra building also houses the Ahmedabad City Museum.
×MANEK CHOWK
The bustling centre of the walled city is named after a legendary Saint.
Surrounded by historical structures, Manek Chowk is the centre of Ahmedabad’s walled city.
It is named after Sant Maneknath. According to legend, Maneknath interrupted Ahmed Shah’s plans of building the Bhadra Fort. He would weave a mat during the day and as he would unravel its stitches at night, the fort walls would crumble. As the construction suffered, Ahmed Shah had to look for a solution. He challenged Maneknath to enter a small jar to show his powers. As Maneknath entered the jar, Ahmed Shah closed it, hence trapping him. It was then that Maneknath assured Ahmed Shah that he would not interfere with the construction of the Fort. The Samadhi of Maneknath is in Manek Chowk.
Today, Manek Chowk has developed a multidimensional character. It is a famous market of the city where vegetables are sold in the morning, jewellery in the afternoon and street food at night.
×SABARMATI RIVER
The Sabarmati River originates in the Aravali Hills and flows through Ahmedabad on its way to the Arabian Sea.
Originating from the Aravali hills, the Sabarmati is a monsoon fed River that bisects the city of Ahmedabad into two halves. On the western half of the River lies the new city and on the eastern bank is the old walled city that was founded by Ahmed Shah in 1411.
The Sabarmati has provided space for both cultural and recreational activities. In the 20th century, Mahatma Gandhi set up his ashram along the river banks, which in the year 1930 was the starting point for the Salt Satyagraha.
The banks were also used to launder clothes and to dye textiles. During the dry seasons, the river bed was used for farming. It also became a centre for commercial activities as the ‘Ravivari’ - Sunday- flea market was set here on the river bank. Today the city’s migrant and poor population continue to live in the informal settlements on the river banks.
×TEEN DARWAZA
A royal ceremony at this grand and imposing gateway once attracted a Mughal emperor to it.
This triple (teen) arched gateway was constructed by Ahmed Shah in 1414 and served as the entrance to the royal square at the Bhadra Fort. It is said that, when in Ahmedabad, the Mughal Emperor Jahangir would come here to watch the procession from TeenDarwaza to the Jama Masjid.
The structure is adorned with intricate carvings, most famous among which is the carving of five palm trees covered with snakes. This motif has been adopted by the Ahmedabad Municipal Corporation as its logo.
Today, the TeenDarwaza functions as a market offering Meenakari furniture, showpieces, embroidered cloths and mirror-studded wall hangings.
×ANASUYA SARABHAI
This trade union leader and social activist, known around Ahmedabad as ‘Motaben’ or Elder Sister, is one of the city’s most notable personalities.
Anasuya Sarabhai- or Motaben (older sister), as she was more commonly referred to as - was the founder of the Women’s Labour Movement, and the first Woman Trade Union Leader in India.
Born into the illustrious Sarabhai family of Ahmedabad, Anasuya’s connection with the labour movement began in London, when she abandoned a degree in medicine because dissection went against the tenets of her religion of Jainism, and opted to study at the London School of Economics and Political Science. Here, she was exposed to the beliefs of the Fabian Society - a socialist organisation that believed in bringing in social change through gradual reform, not sudden upheaval - and the Suffragette Movement.
Upon her return in 1913, she was appalled at the working conditions that many of Ahmedabad’s mill workers, especially women, braved. She was instrumental in setting up toilets for women workers, and schools and creches for their children. In the years that followed, Anasuya Sarabhai organised a series of protests for better working hours and wages, and in doing so, went against her own industrialist brother, Ambalal Sarabhai.
In 1920, she founded the Textile Labour Association - India’s oldest union of Trade Workers.
×ATMA HOUSE
This building was designed by an architect who is famous for having designed Chandigarh - the capital of the northern states of Punjab and Haryana.
The ATMA House is the headquarters of the Ahmedabad Textile Mill Owners Association- a building that is a reminder of Ahmedabad’s close ties with the textile industry.
While Ahmedabad’s identity as a centre of weaving and trade was established in the medieval period, its connection to the craft was carried to the modern era when Ranchhodlal Chhotalal founded the city’s first textile mill in 1861. Others followed in this new industrial pursuit, and Ahmedabad soon came to be known as the ‘Manchester of the East’. It became the second-largest industrial city in Western India, second only to Bombay (now Mumbai).
The ATMA House building was completed in 1954, by the acclaimed modern architect, Le Corbusier. His architectural style is reflected in this cube-shaped building and the sun-breakers (brises soleil) - screen-like structures that deflect the heat of direct sunlight from a building, whilst still allowing enough in for ventilation and illumination.
×CALICO MUSEUM OF TEXTILES
This museum tells the story of an industry that is central to Ahmedabad’s heritage, one that has earned it the title of the 'Manchester of the East’.
Recognising Ahmedabad’s prominence as a textile hub since as early as the 15th century, Ananda Coomaraswamy, the renowned art historian, advised Gautam Sarabhai, the chairman of the Calico Mills of Ahmedabad to set up a textile museum in the city.
The Calico Museum of Textiles was thus founded by Gautam and Gira Sarabhai in 1949 at the Calico Mills. It was shifted to its present building in Shahibaug in 1982. Presently, the museum is managed by the Sarabhai Foundation.
The museum displays a very wide range of textiles. These include rare textiles of various kinds such as Kashmiri shawls that took 3 years to make and cloths in which each of the 100,000 threads were individually dyed before weaving.
There are galleries displaying tie-dyed clothes, royal costumes, regional embroideries and textiles of the Mughal courts. Also included in the museum is the Sarabhai Foundation's own collection of South Indian bronzes, Vaishnava picchavais, Jain art, and miniature paintings.
×CHINTAMANI PARSVNATH TEMPLE
This 18th century Jain Temple was once the scene of political tension the 17th century
The area of Zaveriwada is dominated by a number of Jain temples. The Chintamani Parshwanath Jain Derasar, or Temple, was constructed in 1798, in dedication to Parshwanath - the 23rd of the 24 Jain Spiritual Teachers, known as the Tirthankaras.
This temple houses images from an earlier temple that had been constructed in 1625 by Shantidas Zaveri, a renowned jeweller, and notable public figure who held the title of Nagar Seth - or Chief Merchant- in 17th century Ahmedabad. This original structure was abandoned after Prince Aurangzeb sought to turn it into a mosque for his forces. While a farmaan from his father, the Emperor Shah Jahan, deemed this act illegal, the Jain community considered the space desecrated and abandoned it.
This complex has seen many transitions in design- initially constructed in wood, this was later replaced by marble.
×DALPATRAM
This intersection in the walled city is named after the first modern Gujarati playwright, who is today considered a pioneer in the world of Gujarati literature.
One of the famous Gujarati poets and social reformers of his time, Dalpatram addressed caste issues, superstitions and widow remarriage through his works.
Growing up in a religious environment as a young boy, he often questioned the societal norms and practices that his family observed.
From an early age Dalpatram was drawn to the Swaminarayan sect and eventually embraced it in the year 1834. Soon, he indulged in poetry and was appointed as the poet of the satsang in 1844. He was the first to write a play in the Gujarati language - ‘Lakshmi Natak’ based on the Greek drama, Plutus. Dalpatram gradually gained popularity for his Gujarati poems and was also patronised by the rulers. In 1848, he met Alexander Kinloch Forbes, Assistant Judge at Ahmedabad. Together, they founded the Gujarati Vernacular society at Ahmedabad, today known as Gujarat Vidhya Sabha.
Bhut Nibandh, Guyati Nibandh,Punarvivah Prabandh are some of his famous works of literature.
His statue - composed of an alloy of eight metals - known as ashtadhatu, stands in the spot where his house once was.
×ELLIS BRIDGE
This historic bridge changed the map of Ahmedabad in the 19th century.
This steel structure that looms over the Sabarmati, is the first steel bridge of Ahmedabad, that enabled the growth of Ahmedabad, beyond the eastern bank of the River.
This bridge, named after a British Commissioner of Ahmedabad, Sir B.H. Ellis, was built in 1892, by the architect Himmatlala Dhirajram Bhachech, to replace an earlier wooden structure that was destroyed by floods in 1875. The new structure was created out of steel, imported from the British industrial centre of Birmingham.
Ironically, this Bridge, named after a British official, was where throngs of crowds gathered in 1930, to hear Mahatma Gandhi’s announcement of the historic Dandi March.
Today, this heritage structure is officially known as the Swami Vivekananda Bridge, and is still a major link between the older eastern settlement of Ahmedabad, and the newer, institutional western Ahmedabad.
×HUTHEESING JAIN TEMPLE
The design of this Jain Temple is a combination of architectural beauty, and scientific planning.
The ornate and beautiful Hutheesing Jain temple was commissioned in 1848 by one of the most affluent Jain families of Ahmedabad- the Hutheesing Family. According to records, the temple was commissioned at a time of severe famine, to provide much-needed employment to hundreds of skilled artisans.
Dedicated to the 15th Jain Tirthankar Dharmanath, this two-storeyed temple is built in sandstone and adorned with woodwork, marble and mirror work. The main shrine, or the vimana, where the marble image of the Tirthankar is placed, is approached by a porch surmounted with a dome, while chhatris, or cupolas mark the other shrines within the complex.
In total, 238 stone images are arranged across this complex.
Interestingly, the temple was built with its own systems of water conservation- including a Persian Wheel, wells that are used exclusively for the temple and its rituals, and a rainwater harvesting system. A prominent feature of the complex is the manastambha - a pillar of honour that often identifies Jain temples inspired by a similar pillar at Chittor, in Rajasthan.
×KAGAZI BAZAAR
The Kagazi- or paper-bazaar sells a very specific inventory.
The Chopda Bazaar of Fernandes Bridge on the Gandhi Road is also locally called the KagaziBazaar. As the name suggests the market is famous for its book shops. The oldest book market in Ahmedabad, it has been in existence since 1894. It has close to 400 book stores which sell new and used books. The bazaar is usually teeming with school and college-going students buying and selling books and getting stationery supplies.
The bookstores in this bazaar have been run by generations of the same family.
×KANKARIA LAKE
This man-made lake from the 15th century is the site of many legends.
Also known as the Hauz-i-Qutub, the Kankaria lake was made in 1451 by Sultan Qutub-ud-din. It is said to have covered 76 acres with an island in the middle, known as the Nagina Bagh and a pleasure house known as Ghattamandal.
A supply sluice on the east of the Kankaria lake is exquisitely carved. At each end of the lake is a buttress that resembles the minarets of the Ahmedabad mosques of that period.
The kankaria lake is said to be one of the favourite resorts of rulers and travellers during the Mughal era. It also served as a campsite for various rulers during ongoing battles. Many legends are associated with its name. The popular lore goes that the lake is named after the large amount of limestone (kankar) that was taken out during its excavation. Another one says that Hazrat-i-Shah Alam cut his foot on a pebble while passing the excavation, thus the name kankaria (pebbly).
With the Kankaria lakefront development in 2009, the lake now contains an amusement park, a botanical garden and many such tourist attractions.
×MAHATMA GANDHI
Mahatma Gandhi, the beloved ‘Father of the Nation’ lived in Ahmedabad from 1915 to 1930.
Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi, known to the world as ‘Mahatma’ Gandhi, or Gandhiji, was a lawyer from Gujarat who went on to become one of the most prominent leaders of the Indian Independence Movement.
After completing his education in law, Gandhiji practised in South Africa, where he began to consider non-violent methods to fight the injustice and inequity caused by apartheid.
He returned to India in 1915, and although he traveled across the country to lead movements against the oppressive and exploitative policies of the colonial government, he chose the city of Ahmedabad as his home.
These movements were rooted in an ideology that would become synonymous with Gandhiji. This was the satyagraha - a form of protest that countered oppression and violence with truth and non-violence.
In 1930, Gandhiji announced the Dandi Satyagraha - a peaceful march from Ahmedabad to the seaside village of Dandi where he intended to break an unjust colonial law that prohibited people from manufacturing salt. During this announcement, Gandhiji also declared that he would not return to his residence at the Sabarmati Ashram until India had won her independence.
However, on the 30th of January 1948, within six months of India’s independence, Gandhi was assassinated and could never return to Ahmedabad.
The Mata Bhavani Vav is one of Ahmedabad’s many stepwells. While it may look unassuming, especially when compared to the grand architecture of the walled city, this vav, attached to a shrine to the Goddess Bhavani, is one of the oldest structures of Ahmedabad, and perhaps the last remaining marker of the sites of Ashvaval and Karnavati, the 8th and 11th century settlements respectively, that preceded the walled city that Ahmed Shah named after himself.
This 11th-century stepwell is built in the traditional style. It has three-storeys, each with spaces for social gatherings, structured around a long flight of stairs that lead to a reservoir. While this stepwell is not especially ornate, it does have a few canopies, and carvings of lions and different deities from the Hindu pantheon.
Above all, it effectively performs its primary function- to store water collected during the monsoon months, for use in the dry months that the region of Gujarat braves for most of the year.
This art form emerged as a form of worship among the Vaghari community when they were not allowed to enter temples due to their caste status. The Vagharis, who were devi-pujaks or devotees of the female form, painted an image of the Goddess on a piece of cloth, hung it behind the temple and started worshipping it. This is how the name Mata ni Pachedi, which literally means ‘behind the Mother Goddess’ came up.
Today, Chitaras of the Vaghari community practice this art using methods that have been passed on from generation to generation. Each of these paintings has at its centre an image of the Mother Goddess sitting on her throne or her vahana. Around her are painted mythological scenes and motifs of warriors, musicians, trumpeters, animals and birds.
The craftsmen practicing this art form wash the cloth in the Sabarmati so that the excess colour is washed off and does not stain the fabric. Then the fabric is dried on the river banks of the Sabarmati.
Even though this craft practice was begun as a means to fight caste inequality, it was and still is a crucial source of livelihood for the Chitara community.
×MUHARAT POL
This is the first neighbourhood of the walled city.
The walled city of Ahmedabad consists of nearly 600 neighbourhoods, known as pols.
Derived from the Sanskrit word pratol- or gate- the pols are gated complexes, and traditionally comprised fifty or sixty closely-packed houses, shops for daily needs, a place of worship, their own sources of water, and a single entryway, guarded by a sturdy gate.
This made them self-sufficient, and ready for periods of strife that might occur outside their walls.
In fact, it is said that the gates to many pols were removed by the British, in the aftermath of the events of 1857, thus stripping the pols of their security.
Many of the pols were inhabited by a single community, and are therefore associated with different professions and skills.
This pol, the Muharatpol, dates back to the 15th century and is the oldest of the pols of Ahmedabad.
After his return from South Africa in 1915, Mahatma Gandhi built his first ashram in the Kochrab area of Ahmedabad. However, it is said that he was in search of a different land where he could experiment with farming, animal husbandry, cow breeding, and khadi production. The ashram was thus shifted to the banks of the Sabarmati in 1917, where it still stands. This is where Gandhi lived between the years 1917 and 1930.
Mythologically, the site where the ashram stands today is also the site of sage Dadhichi's ashram - who is revered for having donated his bones for a righteous war.
Sabarmati Ashram is composed of two parts; one, the cottage of Mahatma Gandhi where he had lived with his wife, and second, the Gandhi Museum designed by the architect Charles Correa in 1963. Today, the Sabarmati Ashram functions as a museum with a particular focus on Gandhi’s life and the freedom struggle of India.
×SHREE SWAMINARAYAN TEMPLE
This is the first temple of the Swaminarayan sect of Hinduism.
The oldest temple of the Swaminarayan sect is in Ahmedabad.
The Swaminarayan sect was founded by Sahajanand Swami, a leader who sought to reform Hinduism with an emphasis on asceticism and humanitarianism. This opulent temple was built by his successor, and is one of Ahmedabad's most prominent landmarks.
The main focus on the temple is an octagonal dome, supported by twelve pillars. Within the temple, are idols of Lord Krishna and Radha. As part of the rituals of the temple, their clothes are changed seven times a day, and no outfit is repeated. The Swaminarayan temple was completed in 1850, a mere seven years before the events of 1857 unfolded across India. They seem to have left their mark on the Swaminarayan temple, as many of its pillars bear elaborately-carved depictions of the First War of Indian Independence.
×STOCK EXCHANGE OF AHMEDABAD
This British-era monument was once one of the most powerful institutions in Ahmedabad’s financial landscape. It changed the way business dealings were conducted in the city.
Unlike other countries, India’s need for a stock market was not felt until the late nineteenth century. While the first Stock Exchange was established at Bombay in 1887, Ahmedabad’s growing trade and industry made it the second city on India’s map with a stock exchange. Known as the Ahmedabad Share and Stock Brokers’ Association, the building at Manek Chowk was once a bustling financial centre.
While most dealings were formerly done under a tree in an open maidan (ground), a building dedicated for such transactions in the nineteenth century. The quaint, two storied building that seems to have lost its power today, stands tall on one of the city’s busiest streets. Made of Dhrangadhra stone, with ornate windows and beautifully carved balconies, the building at Manek Chowk has been a witness to the growing industrialisation in India.
×DR. VIKRAM SARABHAI
Ahmedabad was the birthplace of the scientist who is considered the Father of the Indian Space Programme.
Born into the Sarabhai family in Ahmedabad - a family of industrialists, social activists and artists, Vikram Sarabhai, stood out from the rest. As a scientist, he was keen on establishing a name for India in the field of space science. Today, some of India's greatest achievements in this field are credited to Vikram Sarabhai’s determined efforts.
As early as 1947, Vikram Sarabhai established the Physical Research Laboratory (PRL) at Ahmedabad. Initially a small space for research at his residence, PRL was formally established on 11th of November in the same year. This was one among the many institutions that he was later associated with, such as the ISRO (Indian Space Research Organisation) and IIM-Ahmedabad.
×ASHAVALI SAREES
An opulent textile was born in the environs of the old town of Ashaval and was considered luxurious enough to adorn both royalty and their palaces.
Taking its name from the ancient settlement of Ashaval, the Ashavali brocades are one of the oldest brocade traditions of Gujarat. Primarily of the Kimkhab variety, they were worn by the royals in the form of coats, pyjamas, sarees and much more. A thicker version of this textile was used as canopies and also used to adorn royal elephants and horses.
Every Gujarati woman has dreamt of owning at least one Ashavali saree. What makes Ashavali sarees unique is the elaborate borders with different designs and motifs. The motifs are outlined with a different colour, giving them an enamelled effect. Woven with gold or silver threads in combination with five to seven different colours of silk threads, makes them very vibrant. Interestingly, Ashavali sarees with motifs of parrots, peacocks, other animals or even jalis are said to be a portrayal of Gujarat and its characteristic features.
Ashavali sarees gradually lost their importance due to the dual effect of the growth of textile mills in Ahmedabad and the lack of patronage from the royals. However, they continue to be one of the most admired sarees in India.
×DABGARWAD
This area is named after a community that migrated to Ahmedabad in the 15th century, to provide a very specialised service.
Ahmed Shah, the founder of Ahmedabad was a great patron of the arts and crafts. He brought many artisans from various regions to the city. As these artisan communities started settling in, markets started coming up. This is how Dabgarwad or the musical instruments market of Ahmedabad was established.
The Dabgarwad market is named after the Dabgar community which is famous in Gujarat. The community is also settled in Rajasthan and Uttar Pradesh. The Dabgar community in Gujarat, in particular, is highly skilled at making musical instruments.
The 40 to 45 shops in this market have been run by generations of the same family. They sell dhol, khanjari, manjira, pakhawaj and even festive umbrellas. This market is particularly vibrant during the nine days of the Navratri festival which is marked by Garba performances.
×SHAH-E-ALAM ROZA
The Sufi legacy of Ahmedabad is on display at this complex on the outskirts of the walled city.
The city of Ahmedabad is dotted with a number of mosques and tombs, many of which date back many centuries. A few miles from the walled city of Ahmedabad is the revered tomb and mosque complex, Shah-e-Alam Roza. Also known as RasulabadDargah, this complex is named after the sufi mystic, Hazrat Sayyid Sirajuddin Muhuammad (later known as Shah-e-Alam).
Shah-e-Alam belonged to a popular family of sufi saints of the Suhrawardi order. He was the great grandson of the renowned saint, Makhdum-i-Jahaniyan and the son of Burhan-al-Din Qutab-i-Alam. His father’s tomb is situated a few miles from the complex, at Batuwa.
Shah-e-Alam was given a high status in the royal court and was entrusted with the responsibility of teaching the young princes. He died in the year 1457 during the reign of Mahmud Begada.
The Shah-e-Alam Roza is situated where the Saint once lived. Most structures within the complex were later additions which came up in the subsequent years. Out of these, the important structures are the Dargah, the Mosque and the Assembly Hall.
The structure situated at the centre of the complex is Shah-e-Alam’s tomb. After the death of the mystic, this tomb was erected by Taj Khan Narpali, a noble in Mahmud Begada’s court. The inner chamber of the tomb has screens with exquisite jali work with different designs and patterns. It is said that it took ten years to complete the dome.
The mosque was completed in phases. It was erected by Muhammad Badakshi and the construction of the minarets was begun by Nijabat Khan in the seventeenth century but completed by Saif Khan in 1620. It is said that the tank outside the mosque was constructed by Taj Khan Narpali’s wife.
The Assembly Hall or the Jamat Khaana is another revered structure in the complex. Though constructed during the reign of Muhammad Shah II, the assembly hall was restored and renovated twice, in the 16th and the 17th centuries. This hall was partly destroyed by the British during the Anglo Maratha War.
×SARKHEJ ROZA
This complex was once called the ‘Acropolis of Ahmedabad’, by one of its most notable admirers- the Swiss-French architect Le Corbusier.
Over the years the character of the village of Sarkhej had transformed, from a place known for its indigo and weavers’ community to a land of mysticism and peace.
The Sarkhej Roza has gained popularity as the tomb of the saint, Shaikh Ahmad Khattu Ganj Bakhsh lies within the premises. Shaikh Ahmed Khattu Ganj was a close friend and advisor of Ahmed Shah I. He had also played an important role in the foundation of the city of Ahmedabad in 1411 AD. The early life of Shaikh Ahmed is not clear, however, there are legends that say he was born in Delhi but a few years later, lost his way in a dust storm. He was then found by Shaikh Abu Ishaq, near Nagaur, who introduced him to the world of sufism. Known for his teachings, the saint gained popularity among the Sultans of Ahmedabad and in the later years settled at the village of Sarkhej.
Sarkhej Roza, the popular tomb and mosque complex was built in phases. Once an oblong shaped complex, it included the two prime structures; the tomb of the Shaikh and the mosque. Later, during the reign of Mahmud Begada, the lake, the royal palace and the tombs of the members of the royal family were added, making it a large 72 acre complex. There are other smaller tombs within the complex, such as the tombs of noblemen and the famous Persian poet, Ghizhali Mash-hadi.
Today, this complex attracts visitors of various faiths, for it is not only a place where the great sufi saint once lived but also a space known for its beauty and serenity.
On the death of the saint in 1445 A.D, the then ruler, Muhammad Shah II ordered for the construction of a tomb at Sarkhej. It was completed only six years later, in 1451 by his son Sultan Qutub-ud-Din Shah. This tomb is the largest of its kind in the whole of Gujarat which explains the prominent position that the saint once held in the society.
Topped by a central dome and 13 smaller domes on all four sides, this tomb is known for its beautiful architecture. The blend of Hindu elements on an Islamic plan and structure, makes it one of the best examples of Indo Saracenic architecture. It is said that saint Khattu Ganj was deeply loved by the people of Sarkhej and in order to honour him, they dyed the ceiling of the dargah with indigo.
In the courtyard, the pillared structure in front of the Shaikh’s tomb is the Baradari. As one enters through the main gate of the complex, the first structure that catches the eye is this sixteen pillared pavilion. This structure is surmounted by a series of domes.
Close to the Shaikh’s tomb is the Mosque. The mosque built during the time of Muhammad Shah II, is one of the only two mosques in Ahmedabad without minarets. Unlike mosques of the later periods with beautiful arches, this mosque is extremely plain and simple. The mosque has pillared corridors and an open courtyard. From the southern side, one can see the tank that adds to the beauty of the complex.
During the reign of Mahmud Begada, this complex was used for leisure purposes, where the royal family often visited. Sultan Begada enlarged the complex by adding structures associated with royalty. This marked a shift in the character of the complex, from a religious complex to a space that is today associated with generations of the Gujarat Sultanate.
It was Mahmud Begada’s decision to dig a large tank within this complex. The tank is surrounded by cut stone steps, and on one side lies the palace and the harem. Once built for the royal family, the palace is today in ruins. However, the royal structures at Sarkhej give a glimpse into the royals’ lifestyle.
The sanctity of this complex can be understood from the fact that Mahmud Begada wished to be buried within the complex. Hence, he got tombs raised for himself and his family. Mehmud Begada, his wife Rajbi and his son Muzaffar II are buried in tombs opposite that of the saint.
In 1584 A.D, Sarkhej turned into a battlefield, when Emperor Akbar’s noble, Abdur Rahim Khan-i-Khana fought and defeated Muzaffar III, the last Sultan of Ahmedabad. To commemorate his victory, he erected the Fatehwadi (Garden of Victory). Though today nothing remains of this beautiful garden but travellers’ accounts give us an insight into what Fatehwadi must have looked like.
Albert de Mandelslo, a German traveller visited the garden in 1638 A.D and he wrote, “This is the biggest and the most beautiful garden. It is one of the many beautiful places in the world. There are fruit trees bearing oranges, pomegranates, dates, almonds, mulberry, tamarind, coconuts, citrons etc.”
Interestingly, Mughal Emperor Jahangir had also visited Fatehwadi and he was of the opinion that there was no garden like that of Fateh Bagh (wadi) in the whole of Gujarat.
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