Textile of Bihar

Madhubani painting is a form of art practised in the villages around the present town of Madhubani and its adjoining areas, in the northern region of the state of Bihar. It is also known as Mithila painting as this area was a part of the ancient kingdom of Mithila, which is best associated with Sita, the wife of Lord Ram, in the Indian epic, Ramayana. It is perhaps the connection with the female protagonist of the epic which is developed by the womenfolk of the region, that prompts them to express themselves through this art and to keep it alive by passing it down through generations.

The paintings were originally done on freshly plastered mud walls of the rural dwellings. Having been discovered by surveyors in the 20th century, this ancient art form descended from walls to paper and cloth and was subsequently commercialised. As a style of textile decoration, Madhubani paintings are done on satin, cotton and woollen cloth to make items such as wall hangings, lampshades, table linen, coverings and garments, like sarees, dupattas, dress material, dresses, shawls, etc.The designs too, which once had caste-marked differences, have been democratised and the art has witnessed a gender shift, with men also doing the paintings. 

The technique involves the freehand drawing of designs, using bold straight and curved lines in black colour. These designs are then filled up by using two styles, which are called Kachni’ (using fine lines) and Bharni (using colours).  The human faces are characterised by large bulging eyes and a sharp nose that emerges out of the forehead. Traditionally colours derived from natural substances were used such as black from soot, white from powdered rice,and green from the leaves of trees.

     Cotton tipped bamboo sticks, stiff twigs, and even fingers served as brushes. Nowadays, artists use synthetic colours, modern brushes and nib-pens.

The paintings depict the main Gods and Goddesses of the Hindu pantheon and also local deities.Scenes of villages life, ceremonies and customs related to the cycle of life are also shown. The depiction of local flora and fauna is imbued with deep meaning, with the fish symbolizing fertility, and peacocks being associated with romantic love.
 

Bhagalpuri silk refers to a variety of textured and short fibre silk fabric which is produced in the city of Bhagalpur, in eastern Bihar. Located on the banks of river Ganga, Bhagalpur or the Silk City, has an ancient unbroken tradition of weaving, which finds mention in the records of early Chinese travellers as well as those of the Mughals and the British. 

The variety of silk produced here is known as Tussar silk, which is extracted from the cocoons of wide-winged moths that breed in the wild. The yellowish-brown insect thrives on Asan and Arjun trees which grow in the humid and dense forests of Central India and the silk produced inherits its natural golden colour.

The cocoons, traditionally sold by the Adivasis living in the adjoining forests, are now also being reared on trees in the open, as it is difficult to cultivate the caterpillars in captivity. 

Approximately, 1200 cocoons are boiled to produce one kg of yarn. The yarn is reeled and then the weaving is done on a traditional loom. At times, patterning is introduced by using a contrast extra weft yarn.

The silk fabric produced has a rough, porous, and breathable texture, making it suitable for the warm Indian climate. Its dull gold colour provides a suitable base for embroidery, print motifs, and hand painting. At times, the yarns are also dyed in different colours to cater to the demands of the market.Nathnagar and Champanagar are the two major weaving pockets.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Besides the pure Tussar, Bhagalpur also specialises in the Tussar - Gicha fabric in which the fine reeled Tussar (filaments reeled directly from the cocoon without spinning) is used in the warp and Gicha (natural undyed leftovers of pure Tussar silk threads) in the weft. The Tussar-Gicha-Cotton is a popular silk-blend produced for the export market. 

Bhagalpuri silk is used for making the famous Bhagalpuri silk saree, other garments such as jackets, salwar-kurtas, dresses, stoles, scarves and even dress materials. The famous Bhagalpuri Chaadar (sheet), bedspreads and other furnishings are made using the durable Cotton-Gicha mixed yarn. 

Sujani is an embroidery of Bihar which is practised in the Muzaffarpur, Bhusra, Madhubani and Patna regions. The name is derived from two words: ‘su’ and ‘jani’. The former means ‘easy’ while the latter means ‘birth’ and this embroidery originated for making quilts for the new-born child and is associated with a ritual that invokes the presence of a deity, ‘Chitiriya maa,’ or the ‘lady of tatters.’ 

A Sujani is made by putting layers of old white cotton sarees or fabric pieces, which have become soft with prolonged years of wear and wash, one over the other and stitching them together. The thread used for this is the yarn taken out from discarded garments. The idea is to make a quilt to swaddle the newborn in something that replicates the mother’s touch and also protects the delicate skin of the infant.  

The hand embroidery, mainly done by women, is a labour intensive task, as an average of 105-210 stitches has to be made per square inch. The running stitch is mainly used, but the bharua (filling stitch) and the sikadi (chain stitch) stitches are also used. The colour of the embroidery skeins symbolizes nature – with red representing blood, yellow denoting the sun, and blue the sky and water. 

The embroidery closely resembles the Kantha work of Bengal. However, what distinguishes Sujani from all other quilting works are the motifs, which contain unique narrative elements, expressing emotions and experiences. 

The womenfolk embroider Gods and Goddesses, episodes from Hindu epics, rituals and customs, scenes from their daily lives, the sun and clouds, flora and fauna and even fantastic winged creatures which are said to ward off evil.  

In recent years the motifs have become visual representations of social messaging and themes that convey the struggle of women for equal rights in terms of education and political participation, evils of child marriage and female infanticide, domestic violence, and dowry. 

Over the passage of time, this embroidery has diversified its usage as well as its purpose. A thicker variety of cotton, or Tussar silk as base material, and commercial embroidery skeins are being used. In addition to quilts, household items such as bed sheets, cushion covers and clothing items such as sarees, kurta, stoles, dupattas are being made. 
 

Bawan buti saree is a traditional handloom cotton saree woven in the Nalanda district of the state of Bihar. The term bawan means fifty-two and buti implies a miniature motif. Thus, bawan-buti sarees have 52 woven motifs. These sarees generally form part of the trousseau of a bride and are also known as the ‘len-den ki saree’ or the saree used for gifting during marriages and other special occasions. 

The saree is usually made in plain colours and is designed with thick borders and coloured striped pallu. The weaving is done on traditional pit looms. Besides the warp (vertical) threads and the weft (horizontal) threads, the extra weft is used for weaving motifs. In this way, the patterns are directly woven into the structure of the fabric. This style of weaving is known as the cotton-on-cotton brocade.

The motifs used in this weave are related to the history of Nalanda, a place closely connected to the Buddhist religion. Here, the symbols associated with Buddha’s life have not only influenced monuments but have also found a place in the crafts. The most common motif used in the Bawan buti sarees is the leaf of the Bodhi tree (peepal tree), while others such as the stupa, bull, elephant, lotus flower, wheel, are also made. 

The main centres of weaving are the Biharsharif town and the nearby villages such as Basawan Bigha, Nepura, Malah Bigha, and Uparanwa. While Nepura is known for weaving in Tussar silk, the Basawan Bigha is famous for its cotton weaves. The weavers of Basawan Bigha hold that curtains and fabric made here were supplied to the Rashtrapati Bhawan during the tenure of the first president of India, Dr Rajendra Prasad.

The motifs made on those curtains are still referred to as Rashtrapati Bhawan designs.

The Bawan Buti weaving is expanding in terms of products. Diversifying from sarees, the motifs are being made on bedsheets, pillow covers and curtains. The material is sought after in countries where Buddhism is a thriving religion, such as those in East and Southeast Asia. Efforts are on to popularize the sarees and the weave in India as well.