Textiles of Ao Naga, Konyak Naga and Phom Naga Tribes
Textiles of Ao Naga Tribe
The Ao Naga people mostly live in the central Mokokchung district and Mon district of Nagaland. Tsungkotepsu or Mangkoteptsu is a prominent shawl worn by the men of this tribe. The warrior tribes of Nagaland were known for their head-hunting practices in ancient times. Tsungkotepsu represents a variety of figures that include mithun (Gayal), tigers, elephants and a human head along with the spear on its top. These figures contain various meanings. The figure of a Mithun symbolizes the wealth of the person who wears the shawl, while the figures of elephant and tiger together represent the ability of the warrior to fight. However, the figure of a human head reflects the success of the warrior in headhunting. This shawl is generally made on a dark base with a white band in the middle. It also contains some horizontal bands on its sides.
Rongsu is another significant shawl of this tribe. The pattern of this shawl consists of dark blue and red bands arranged alternatively with light blue lines. The shawl is fixed with the dyed hair of dogs during the process of weaving.
Metsu shawl is worn by the elderly people of a village, while Angtongsu is the most popular shawl worn by Ao women. It’s made by stitching two pieces of woven fabric together.
The Ao Naga men mostly use a garment called cowrie apron to cover the front side of the body. This apron is specially designed with several cowries to wear during the festivals. The use of traditional shawls as an upper garment is a usual scene in Nagaland.
The women use Ngami su and Changkisu- two different types of lower garments. Ngami su is a garment with black stripes woven on a red background, while changkisu is a fabric with red squares woven on a blue or brown background. They also use Azu Jangnup Skirt and Yongzujangau Skirt. Tukutsukresu is a bodice used by Ao Naga women.
Textiles of Konyak Naga Tribe
The Konyak Naga tribe people wear a variety of shawls. The elderly people use a shawl called nye-myon when they go for meetings and social gatherings. Nikola is a white shawl worn only by women. A Shatni shawl is a wedding gift to a girl by her parents, and it’s preserved properly to wrap her body when she dies. Moreover, Meyni is an aristocratic shawl worn by the elderly people of a Konyak village.
Textiles of Phom Naga Tribe
The Phom Naga people are mostly settled in the Longleng district. They usually wear Vihe-ashak (an ordinary white cloth) and Nempong-ashak (a dark blue cloth) as casual wear. The men of this tribe use a red coloured shawl called Henyu, which has narrow white horizontal bands at regular intervals. Phom shungnang is a black skirt with a pair of prominent stripes, while shaka is another Phom Naga women wear.
Textiles of Sema Naga, Yimchunger Naga and Lotha Naga Tribes
Textiles of Sema Naga Tribe
The Sema or Sumi Naga people usually belong to Kiphire and Zunheboto districts of the state. Akhum is a widely worn cloth among the Sema Naga people. It’s a black cloth with three or four red bands. Moreover, the Sema Naga warriors use a cloth called Ayi-kiyi-phi. Avi-kiyi-phi is another significant cloth of this tribe that contains nine white bands at regular intervals.
Textiles of Yimchunger Naga Tribe
The Yimchunger Naga people reside in the Kiphire district. Rongkhim is one of the most attractive warrior shawls of this tribe. This shawl has a red or black base with narrow grey bands at the two edges. Tsungrem khim is an exclusive female shawl, while Sangkonglim Khim is worn by both Yimchunger men and women. Rehuke Khim is a significant cloth worn by wealthy Yimchunger men. Kechingperu khim is a white skirt with narrow black and red bands at regular intervals. The wealthy women of this tribe wear a skirt called Langa Imjung.
Textiles of Lotha Naga Tribe
The Lotha people mainly reside in Wokha district. They use various patterns of shawls containing different meanings. It mostly signifies the number of social feasts performed by the wearer. Sutam is a white shawl with dark blue horizontal stripes. It’s used by those men who have performed no social feasts.
Phangrup is a dark blue shawl worn by a man who has performed the first social feast. However, a man who has completed a series of social feasts wears the special shawl called Lungpensu.
Textiles of Angam Naga and Chakhesang Naga Tribes
Textiles of Angami Naga Tribe
The Angami Naga people generally live in Kohima and Dimapur districts. Thotsepfhe is one of the prominent shawls used by the people of this tribe. It’s a white-coloured cotton shawl prepared by joining four pieces of woven cloth. This shawl has a black embroidered design at one end. Ratapfe is a black shawl widely worn by both Angami men and women. The Angami women wear Loramhoushu- a white base with red and black bands, while the men wear traditionally designed kilts. They also wear a narrow cotton girdle decorated with thickly woven rhomboid designs. Pichu-pfe is a kilt intricately designed with cowries for the priests.
Textiles of Chakhesang Naga Tribe
The Chakhesang Naga people mostly live in the Phek district of Nagaland. Khonoma Shawl is a shawl exclusively worn by the warrior men of this tribe. The spear motifs reflected in this shawl signify bravery in war.
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