Textiles of Mizoram

The hills of Mizoram are mostly inhabited by the Lushais and other tribes including Hmar, Chakma, Pawi etc. In Lushai, the word Mizoram literally means ‘Land of the Hill people’ where ‘mi’ stands for people, ‘zo’ is for hills and ‘ram’ means country. The people are generally referred to as Mizo. The art of weaving is an integral part of the culture of Mizoram. Women are taught to weave from a very young age. They work at their personal looms during their leisure time. 

Puan refers to a hand-woven fabric that may be used for making various items including shawls, wrap-around for both men and women, shirts, ties etc. These are noted for their intricate woven designs, motifs and patterns, and are a significant part of the culture of Mizoram. The weaving is done using cotton threads, usually on loin looms that are traditionally known as Puanbu.

The warp beam is fixed to the ground and a second beam is tied to the weaver with the help of a backstrap. The weaver sits on the ground and operates the warp beam by pushing it with her legs. 

Different types of Puans are worn by the people of Mizoram, making it the most important textile of the state. These puans are distinguished by their colours, patterns, designs and purpose. The Puanngo or the Puanmawl was the first and most simple of the fabrics used by the Lushai community.

It was a plain weave of white cotton yarn with designs. The Thangchhuapuan was reserved in the early days for the brave and powerful men, who earned their status by killing the maximum number of enemies in a war.

Puanchei is a colourful wrap-around for women and is worn especially by the Lushai women in Mizo festive  dances and official ceremonies. The Ngotekherh or puanhruih is a black and white lower garment.The black, white, yellow and green striped Puandom is worn by the people of the Paitei tribe for official meetings, expressing condolence etc. It is a special fabric also among the Lushais and is made by a bride as a marriage gift to her husband. On the instance of her husband’s demise during her lifespan, this Puandom is used to cover his body.

The designs and motifs of the Puan are created during the process of weaving by using supplementary yarns. A common type of Puan is created by using the Siniar motif, a traditional design put together by weaving shapes such as triangles, diamonds and zig-zag lines. Inspiration for the designs also comes from flowers such as roses, tulips or peonies. Kawppuizikzial, a floral geometric pattern, is one of the earliest designs used to create Puans. Disul is another such design, which is relatively more intricate. The Puanchei is created by using a combination of motifs such as Hruih (a plain black stripe), Lenbuangthuan (multiple triangles), and the Sakri zangzia (depicting the back of a tiger). 

Eventually, the Mizo women started covering their upper bodies with a full-sleeved blouse called Kawrchei. It is an intricately embroidered Mizo blouse, which is hand-woven using cotton yarn. This blouse is now worn on special occasions and festivals and is generally paired with Puan.