Textiles of Andhra Pradesh

The state of Andhra Pradesh is renowned for its ancient style of hand painting known as Kalamkari. The word Kalamkari is a combination of two terms - Kalam, meaning pen and Kari referring to craftsmanship. It is traditionally done on cotton and silk fabrics using natural materials.

The cotton fabric used for Kalamkari is first treated with a solution of cow dung and bleach to acquire a uniform off-white colour. The fabric is then immersed in a mixture of buffalo milk and Myrobalan. Later, the fabric is washed multiple times under running water to remove the odour of the buffalo milk. Once it is dried, the artisans prepare to decorate the fabric with detailed motifs and designs.

The eye-catching motifs of Kalamkari reflect characters of Hindu epics like Mahabharata and Ramayana, scenes of Krishna Raas-Leela, Indian Gods and Goddesses like Parvati, Vishnu, Sri Jagannath, etc. It also displays designs of Indian forts, palaces and temples, as well as motifs of animals, birds and flowers. The colours used to fill these motifs and designs are extracted from natural sources by the artisans. This incredible art of Kalamkari can be categorised into two types, viz. Srikalahasti style and Machilipatnam style. The Srikalahasti style involves painting the fabrics, whereas in the Machilipatnam style the designs are obtained on the fabric through block printing.

The coastal village of Chirala is well-known for the production of Telia Rumal. It is a handkerchief measuring around one metre square. The making of this rumal or handkerchief involves the use of tel (oil) and was traditionally practised by the weavers belonging to the Padmashali community. During the 20th century, these handkerchiefs were also exported to the Middle East, Africa and Burma.       

The Telia Rumal is traditionally made using natural dyes. The fabrics are first mordanted with iron solution and alum. During the process of dyeing the areas with iron are transformed into deep black colour and the areas with alum into red. The layout of a typical Telia Rumal consists of a geometrical grid-like pattern with borders. The themes of the designs have varied over time. The 19th century Telia Rumal reflected geometrical designs like crosses, dots and diamonds. In the 20th century, forms like flowers, birds, animals, etc were also introduced. 

The Venkatagiri saree, produced in the Venkatagiri village of Nellore district, is one of the renowned textiles of Andhra Pradesh. These sarees are made using cotton and silk threads, woven mostly on traditional pit looms. The origin of the Venkatagiri saree dates back to the early seventeenth century when this art was patronized by the royal family of Nellore. 

The border of the Venkatagiri saree is generally one or two inches wide. The distinctive feature is zari and cotton threads being woven together. These sarees are finely woven, light in weight and comfortable to wear. The motifs of peacocks, parrots, swans, mangoes or leaves in the pallu of these sarees reflect their unique design. 

The Mangalagiri saree, produced in the Mangalagiri town of Guntur district, is a popular fabric of Andhra Pradesh. These are simple handloom sarees with intricate designs woven in cotton. Mangalagiri sarees are eye-catching for their unique borders, mainly embellished with zari threads. The borders also come in plain colours and with patterns of stripes and checks. 

For producing a Mangalagiri saree, the cotton yarn is first boiled in a solution of water and soda. This is followed by the process of dyeing and drying the yarns. The dried yarns are then taken for weaving. The motifs on the saree depict different animals, birds, fruits etc.