Kani Shawl, Kanihana
From the valleys of the Kanihama region of Kashmir, comes the Kani shawl. The craft takes its name from the region Kanihama itself, although Kani also means an oblong wooden spool in Kashmiri. Known to be the oldest handicraft of Kashmir, the Kani weave is made using Pashmina yarns and wooden needles. The shawl contains floral and leafy motifs. The artisans follow a ‘Talim’ or a coded pattern while weaving a Kani shawl.
Based on this pattern, the weaver decides on the number of warp and weft threads that need to be used. Depending upon the intricacy of the design to be woven, a Kani Shawl may take six to eighteen months to be completed. The techniques involved in making a Kani Shawl are passed on from one generation to the next. These shawls were once woven by the families residing in the entire region of Kanihama. However, only a few families are engaged in continuing the craft today.
Kani Shawls are one of the most expensive handicrafts in the market today. It is said that these shawls were once worn by the Sikh Maharajahs, Mughal Emperors, and British aristocrats. The Kani shawl has received the GI Tag making Kanihama the only place where Kani Shawls are woven legally.
Pashmina Shawl
The word Pashmina comes from a Persian word named ‘Pashmineh’ or ‘Pashm’ meaning wool. The wool for Pashmina comes from Changthangi goats found in the high-altitude regions of India.
These goats are indigenous to India and the wool for the Pashmina is made from the fur of these goats.
Changthangi Goats are herded by the Changpa tribe, who live in extremely cold conditions of about 15000 feet above sea level in the regions of Ladakh.
Making a Pashmina is a laborious task.It involves extracting and combing the wool from the Changthangi goats, separating the individual fibres, hand spinning the fibres to form yarn, weaving the spun yarn and decorating the woven fabric with intricate embroidery.
A single hand-woven Pashmina may take up to six months to be made. Various designs are woven on Pashmina shawls such as Buta, Buti (floral), Badaam, Ambi, Shikargarh, Hashiya etc.
Pashmina shawls are also known as ‘do-rukha’ shawls meaning double-sided.
In the past, these shawls were presented as gifts to the royal families.
Shahtoosh Shawl
Once a very valued possession, the Shahtoosh shawls are now illegal. The wool for Shahtoosh shawl was obtained from the Tibetan Antelope, locally known as ‘Chiru’ living in high altitude regions. In order to survive the cold climatic conditions these Antelopes develop underfur. Back in time, Chiru’s were hunted down for their fur by poachers. To make one Shahtoosh shawl, the fur of three Tibetan Antelopes was required.
Thousands of Antelopes were killed every year to obtain the wool for Shahtoosh shawls. As a result, the population of these Tibetan Antelopes declined significantly. In the ’80s and ’90s, these animals become endangered due to massive illegal poaching. Legal protection was provided in 1979 under CITIES, Convention on International Trade on Endangered Species.
The Indian government banned the trade of Shahtoosh wool in 1991. This shawl, traditionally woven by the craftsmen of Kashmir, was known for its majestic feel and softness. These were in high demand in India as they were given as gifts and even became a symbol of luxury and social status in Europe.
Kashmiri Rug
A Kashmiri rug or carpet is a handwoven and hand-knotted carpet that comes in various designs and colours. Due to their intricate designs, these are often referred to as Oriental rugs. These rugs are normally woven in shades of blue, red, green, and ivory.
The motifs used in Kashmiri rugs are paisley, chinar tree leaves, and floral designs. These motifs and patterns are deeply connected to the Kashmiri way of life and represent the life of a person native to Kashmir. The home of a Kashmiri is considered incomplete without one such carpet.
These rugs are handmade by tying the knots on the warp strands. The warps are thick and strong strands of wool, cotton and silk, and combinations of these, which run through the length of the carpet. Similar threads and combinations are passed under and over the warps from one end to the other to make the Kashmiri rugs.
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