Textiles of Tamil Nadu

The Kanjeevaram saree is one of the most well-known silk sarees produced in India. Originating in the temple town of Kanchipuram, these are richly decorated silk sarees with elaborate zari work. The origin of this saree can be dated back to the time of the Cholas. Weavers from Andhra Pradesh were relocated to Kanchipuram by the Chola rulers with the goal of developing the region as a centre for silk production. Kanjeevaram silk sarees are heavier than other sarees and are known for their durability.  These are worn on special occasions like marriages. A range of different types of motifs can be found on the Kanjeevaram sarees including peacocks, scenes from Indian mythology and patterns inspired by the temple architecture of the region. 

The production of these sarees is a laborious process. It takes up to ten days to produce a Kanjeevaram saree depending on the complexity of the designs. First, silk yarns are dipped in a boiling solution of soap and dye. Thereafter, the dyed yarns are washed to remove excess colour and dried for two to three days. The yarns for the body, pallu and border of the saree are often dyed in contrasting colours. The dyed yarns are spun on a traditional bamboo spool locally known as parivattam. The spooled yarns are once again spun onto spindles through a spinning wheel and prepared to be used as weft threads. These spindles are inserted in the fly shuttle during weaving. The warp yarns are dipped in a rice starch solution for strength and lustre. After this, the warp yarns are loaded on the loom to begin the process of weaving. Kanjeevaram sarees are woven on fly shuttle looms.

The Chettinad saree, also known as the Kandangi saree, is produced primarily in the region of Chettinad in Southern Tamil Nadu. It is known for its bright colours and high borders. Black, mustard, red, green and other vibrant colours combine to produce beautiful stripes, checks, squares etc. on the body of the saree. These are made of both cotton and silk threads, are woven finely and have a delicate sheen.  

The Kandangi sarees were intentionally made thick in the past as they were meant to be worn without a blouse. The strength of the textile is attributed to the particular technique of using wet yarns for weaving. To produce one Chettinad Saree, it takes around a week or more, and these are suitable not only for daily wear, but also for important functions and ceremonies.

Terry towels which originated in Turkey, are now manufactured in Madurai. Terry towel making is an important weaving practice in Tamil Nadu today. These towels have loop piles on one or both sides to allow the absorption of water. Cotton fibres are used for these towels, which not only absorb water, but also can be easily dyed and are very durable.

In the weaving of Terry towels, two sheets of warp threads are used at the same time along with spindles of different types in accordance with the final design.

Thanjavur is known for its stunning silk products not only in India, but across the world. The sarees made here are colourful, bright and their aanchal (loose end of the saree which is draped over the shoulder)  are decorated elaborately with intricate designs. Under the Chola rulers in the early medieval times, the weavers of this region prospered and their art developed.

The silk sarees produced in Thirubuvanam, a town in the Thanjavur district, are especially famous. These sarees have elaborate zari work and are lustrous and rich in quality. The motifs of birds, flowers, creepers, jewellery etc. woven delicately on the borders make the Thirubuvanam sarees particularly attractive. The colours used here are solid, bright and eye-catching.

The Sungudi sarees reflect the interesting influence of the Saurashtra weavers who settled in Madurai during the reign of King Thirumalai Naicker in the 17th century. 

Sungudi sarees are made of cotton and decorated with traditional dot patterns created through the tie-dye technique. Cotton fabric is first tied with thread at many points. This is a laborious process as the artisans make hundreds of small knots on the fabric with the help of their fingernails. After this, the fabric is dyed by dipping it in a coloured solution.

Natural dyes obtained from plants are used to dye Sungudi sarees. Once the fabric is dyed, it is washed and dried. Lastly, the small knots are opened. These knots resist the dye and, hence, create a beautiful dotted pattern on the fabric. Apart from the dots that make the fabric attractive, the Sungudi saree is also known for its soft feel.

The Madras Fabric is a typical, chequered,  lightweight, cotton fabric especially suitable for the summers. As the name suggests, it originates from Chennai, formerly known as Madras. It was not only used widely in India, but was also an important item of export in the colonial period, particularly after the East India Company established its base in Madras.

This fabric is woven from a short-staple cotton fiber that cannot be combed, only carded, resulting in bumps known as slubs which are thick spots in the yarn that give it a unique texture. The typical colours used to make the checks are red, white and blue. The Madras fabric is used to make a range of items like lungis, trousers, shirts etc.

 For the people of Bhavani in Tamil Nadu, weaving has traditionally been an important activity. Woven in pit looms, Jamakkalams are aesthetic carpets (and blankets) from Bhavani. The story of the Jamakkalam began in colonial times, when the Jangamar weavers began weaving coarse cotton carpets in Bhavani.

These soon rose in popularity and became a part of the identity of the region of Bhavani. These carpets may be made both of cotton and silk, though the cotton Jamakkalams are more widely produced. These are rough, dyed in bright colours and bear simple striped designs. Delicately designed, fine Jamakkalam fabrics are also available, and are used for making items like bags, sarees etc. The cotton carpets are called Sadar Jamakkalam, while the Pattu Jamakkalam is a finely woven fabric, usually made of artificial silk.

KODALIKARUPPUR FABRIC: The Kodalikaruppur or simply the Karuppur fabric was made in the village of Kodalikaruppur for the court of Thanjavur in the 18th century. Used for making sarees, dhotis, turbans etc. this fabric was produced through a range of different techniques like Jamdani brocading, hand painting, block printing etc. Detailed zari work, woven in the Jamdani style, served as the background for the designs that were resist-dyed, painted and printed carefully on the fabric using vegetable colours. Different types of motifs like stars, flowers, leaves, trees etc. were made carefully on the Kodalikaruppur weaves. Garments made of this fabric were given out as robes of honour to people in the royal court of the Marathas. Kodalikaruppur sarees and turbans were very popular in weddings.